Empty cities: Photos of Rome during lockdown by Emma Law

Despite what the guidebooks say, there isn’t really an off-season in Rome’s calendar. Staying out late or waking up early is the best way to beat the crowds but, even then, the city never stops.

It was only as Italy slowly emerged from its lockdown in May that I experienced Rome truly quiet. During lockdown, we only left our houses for essential journeys, usually to the closest supermarket or to exercise nearby. Travelling further afield was off the cards, mainly as we all had to declare our reason for leaving the house on a self-certification form, which could be checked by the police at any time.

“The Trevi Fountain without a mob of coin-throwing tourists and selfie-stick sellers was a beautiful but surreal experience”

After nearly two months stuck at home in the Ostiense neighbourhood, I was relieved to finally be able to see the rest of the city again.

The streets I used to hurry through to avoid crowds were now empty of tourists: instead frequented by the occasional lone explorer like me or cyclists making the most of the lack of traffic. Shops were shuttered, and bars and restaurants closed, but Rome’s famous landmarks remained as impressive as ever.

Seeing the Colosseum without a queue snaking out into the piazza or the Trevi Fountain without a mob of coin-throwing tourists and selfie-stick sellers was a beautiful but surreal experience. When you can walk up the Capitoline Hill and look out over the Roman Forum – the heart of the ancient city – and not see another soul, you know you’re living through a historic moment. Though it was unsettling to contemplate why it was so empty, it was a privilege to experience Rome this way.

Originally from the UK, Emma Law is a freelance writer and marketing consultant based in Rome. She shares stories about life in Italy on her website, EmmaWritesRome, and on Instagram and Twitter.