City guide: Reykjavík, Iceland
Umbrella creative director Matt Reynolds discovers how Reykjavík’s creatives are forging a brighter future for Iceland.
It’s a cold, bright day in Iceland, and Umbrella is standing in the centre of the capital city, Reykjavík, with a tour guide for company. We look around, trying to fathom the place out.
“Reykjavík is a small city,” says our guide, “with a big heart.”
She’s right. With a population of just 120,000 (roughly the same as High Wycombe) Iceland’s largest settlement is nowhere near as populous as other capital cities, yet punches well above its weight – culturally speaking at least.
So who are the city’s biggest icons?
“Björk,” she says. “The first thing people want to know about when they come here is Björk. Or The Sugarcubes… and sometimes Sigur Rós.”
Reykjavík’s musical heritage is well established, but musicians aren’t its only world-class cultural export. Artist Ragnar Kjartansson represented Iceland at the Venice Biennale recently (the youngest artist ever to do so) and former mayor Jón Gnarr performs regularly as a stand-up comedian. Part of his election campaign included promises of “free towels in all swimming pools and a polar bear for the zoo”, naturally.
“The first thing people want to know about when they come here is Björk. Or The Sugarcubes… and sometimes Sigur Rós”
Then there’s the writers. Iceland has a strong tradition of storytelling that dates back as far as the Viking sagas, but thanks to a recent boom in publishing it’s estimated that one in ten of its citizens will go on to publish a book.
So where does all this creativity come from?
Our guide smiles. “That’s easy – kreppa. It’s the Icelandic word for ‘crash’. In 2008 the banks here collapsed, and Iceland had to ask itself, ‘What now? Who do we want to be? What are we good at?’ and we decided that culture should be top of our agenda. Encouraging citizens to become more creative is a government project – they even award subsidies to artists.”
It’s a strategy that’s paid off. Regular cultural events such as Reykjavík’s Winter Lights festival and the Sónar electronic music festival have helped boost tourism to record levels.
But it’s not just the events that are attracting young, smart visitors from around the world: “We have great shops too, full of designer brands,” she says. “We have fantastic restaurants cooking with locally-sourced produce and of course, great nightlife.” Sounds like High Wycombe has some catching up to do.
Reykjavík’s creative streak is evident in its architecture, too. The buildings are a mixture of traditional wooden structures, functional low-rise apartment blocks (often clad in corrugated iron) and Danish-influenced modernist houses painted with large expanses of bright colour.
Improving transport is also on the agenda. Cycling is increasing in popularity, and plans are underway to develop a high-speed airport rail link between Keflavik International Airport and the city.
Outside of the capital region, geothermal pools (including the hugely-popular ‘Blue Lagoon’ spa), explosive geysers, volcanoes, glaciers and lava fields make up the incredible landscape. “On a sunny day,” she says, “it’s the most beautiful country in the world.”
“To be Icelandic is to be flexible to sudden changes of fortune”
Later, at a gallery opening downtown we bump into current mayor Dagur Eggertsson. He’s on his way to a gig (of course) but still has time to talk to us about the city he loves.
“The young people here, they’re brave, full of self-confidence. They see themselves aligned with both Europe and the US – yet are proud of their own heritage. In terms of creativity, we encourage that. The alternative is the mainstream here, art encourages discussion – it gives you a voice.”
Before he leaves, he reminds us of something his predecessor used to say: “To be Icelandic is to be flexible to sudden changes of fortune.”
And with fortunes improving, it seems that to be Icelandic is a good thing to be right now. With both eyes set firmly on the future, the people of Reykjavík could teach us all a thing or two. A big heart indeed.
Umbrella’s Reykjavík
EAT
Laundromat Café. Relaxed café with reasonably-priced coffee & breakfasts
KEX. Great selection of craft beers and delicious bar snacks
Lava Restaurant. Luxury dining just outside Reykjavík from Viktor Örn Andrésson
SHOP
Spúútnik. Vintage Redwing boots and military-issue parkas sold by the kilo
66°NORTH. Iceland’s own no-nonsense outdoors-wear company
Kickstart. Impeccable collection of raw denim and Nigel Cabourn jackets
STAY
Airbnb. Selection of super-tasteful apartments across the city
Icelandair Hotel Reykjavík Marina. Understated hotel (with an excellent bar) in the fashionable marina area
Center Hotels Plaza. Well-located and popular hotel in the city centre
Umbrella flew direct to Keflavík Airport with British Airways and stayed at the Ion City Hotel. With thanks (takk fyrir!) to visitreykjavik.is